In a first-of-its-kind experiment scientists at the University of Miami’s SUSTAIN (SUrge‐Structure Atmosphere INteraction) lab have taken a major leap in understanding how ocean waves form and grow under extreme wind conditions including hurricanes. This pioneering research offers fresh insights into the air-sea interaction process, which is key to improving weather forecasts, hurricane modeling, and coastal resilience planning.
The study, conducted in the university’s high-tech wind-wave tank capable of simulating Category 5 hurricane-force winds, captured a high-resolution profile of air pressure and airflow above moving water. Using a combination of Constant Temperature Anemometry, Particle Image Velocimetry, and Multi-beam Imaging, the team measured more than 1,000 data points per second, tracking how wind interacts with wave surfaces in real time.
“Wind pressure acts like fuel for ocean waves pushing them taller and faster,” explained Peisen Tan, the lead author and recent Ph.D. graduate from the Rosenstiel School of Marine, Atmospheric, and Earth Science. “Our controlled experiments allowed us to document that even without direct pressure measurements over the open ocean, wind speed can accurately estimate wave growth.”
The research revealed that traditional models where air is assumed to move in sync with the water are mostly accurate, explaining over 90% of momentum transfer. However, those models begin to break down when airflow separates on the leeward (downwind) side of waves. In such cases, current models underestimate momentum transfer by over 30%, leading to significant gaps in forecasting wave intensity during storms.
Brian Haus, professor and study co-author, emphasized the broader impact “This is the first time we’ve been able to reconstruct a two-dimensional pressure and airflow profile over a wavy surface at this scale. It’s a breakthrough that will refine wave forecasting models by accounting for the crucial phenomenon of airflow separation.”
With oceanic storms becoming more intense due to climate change, understanding how waves grow and interact with powerful winds is more important than ever. These findings not only enhance scientific models but also hold potential for improving hurricane preparedness and infrastructure design along vulnerable coastlines.