European investigators have uncovered a massive illegal textile waste trafficking operation that saw more than 4,200 tonnes of waste shipped from Italy to Turkey in violation of environmental laws. The investigation, led by the European Anti-Fraud Office (OLAF) with support from Italy’s Carabinieri and Turkish customs authorities, revealed how textile waste was deliberately mislabelled to avoid costly recycling requirements and environmental regulations.
Authorities said the waste mainly contained acrylic fibres, a type of synthetic material that can remain in the environment for up to 200 years and requires specialised recycling. By falsely labelling the shipments, those involved allegedly avoided strict disposal rules while generating illegal profits.
The investigation began after OLAF analysed trade flows, customs records and recycling capacity, identifying suspicious consignments bound for Turkey. Turkish inspectors later confirmed that around 4,200 tonnes of textile waste had been imported illegally.
Growing Concern Over Textile Waste
The investigation expanded after a joint inspection involving European and Turkish authorities. Inspectors discovered an additional 2,100 tonnes of textile waste stored at a warehouse connected to a Turkish recycling facility that allegedly failed to meet environmental standards. Another 768 tonnes of textile waste linked to the same operation was found at the Turkish port of Mersin, where it had also been incorrectly labelled and was reportedly ready for illegal dumping.
The case highlights growing concerns over textile waste generated by the fashion industry. Europe produced approximately 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste in 2019, but only around 20 percent was collected separately for recycling or reuse. Much of the remaining waste is either sent to landfills, incinerated or exported overseas.
Authorities Seize €12 Million in Assets
The investigation has already led to major enforcement action in Italy. The Carabinieri raided a business complex in Brescia believed to be linked to the illegal exports, seizing company premises, a fleet of trucks allegedly used in the operation and financial assets worth around €12 million.
OLAF Director-General Petr Klement said schemes that illegally avoid recycling costs create opportunities for organised criminal networks to profit while damaging both the environment and the economy. He added that the case demonstrates the importance of international cooperation in tackling environmental crime.
The case comes as the European Union strengthens efforts to tackle textile waste. New EU rules introduced in 2025 aim to prevent waste from being falsely labelled as reusable goods before export and increase oversight of cross border textile shipments.
Meanwhile, France and four other EU member states are urging the European Commission to introduce even tougher measures against ultra fast fashion companies. They argue that the rapid growth of low cost online fashion platforms is fuelling excessive consumption, overwhelming recycling systems and generating enormous amounts of textile waste across Europe.
Environmental experts say stronger regulation, better recycling infrastructure and greater accountability for fashion producers will be essential to reduce textile pollution and move towards a more circular economy.